- dancuciureanu
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- 16,457 mesaje
- din 26 Jun 2006
- Agila 2001 Z10XE + Z12XE
- Iasi
dancuciureanu
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Eroarea de vacuum nu are legatura cu uleiul, daca uleiul e contaminat cu motorina nu se poate vedea pe tester, se vede dupa nivel, miros si viscozitate.
danynad poti schimba uleiul deja ca l-ai terminat cu drumuri scurte si contaminare cu motorina.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:
Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it.
danynad poti schimba uleiul deja ca l-ai terminat cu drumuri scurte si contaminare cu motorina.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:
Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it.
danynad
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- bobbi
- **
- 114 mesaje
- din 11 Oct 2008
- Astra 2004 Z17DTH
- Bucuresti
bobbi
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Citind cele de aici, mi-am adus aminte ca acum cateva zile, la o verificare a nivelului de ulei, am observat ca joja indica cam 1-2 mm peste indicatorul de maxim. Motorul statuse cam 30-40 de min, deci zic ca era de ajuns ca sa pot masura nivelul uleiului...sa inteleg ca poate sa fie vorba de o contaminare cu motorina?
Pe de alta parte, am 10000km de la ultimul schimb de ulei, jumatate facuti in afara, jumatete in oras si cu drumuri scurte (de genul acasa-munca-acasa). Am impresia ca a crescut si putin consumul, adica la drum intins intr-a 5-a si cu aprox 100-110km/h, pe la 2250 ture instantul arata 6-6.5, ceea ce mi se pare cam multicel tinand seama eram in zona de cuplu. Tot asa, in oras in zona de cuplu si cu a 3-a instantul arata 4, ceea ce iar mi se par cam mult.
poate consumul marit o fi doar din cauza consumabilelor, eu asa sper. Oricum mi-au venit consumabilele GM si saptama viitoare voi face schimbul, in speranta unor rezultate. La schimb presupun ca s-ar observa daca uleiul existent acum in motor s-a contaminat, nu?
Pe de alta parte, am 10000km de la ultimul schimb de ulei, jumatate facuti in afara, jumatete in oras si cu drumuri scurte (de genul acasa-munca-acasa). Am impresia ca a crescut si putin consumul, adica la drum intins intr-a 5-a si cu aprox 100-110km/h, pe la 2250 ture instantul arata 6-6.5, ceea ce mi se pare cam multicel tinand seama eram in zona de cuplu. Tot asa, in oras in zona de cuplu si cu a 3-a instantul arata 4, ceea ce iar mi se par cam mult.
poate consumul marit o fi doar din cauza consumabilelor, eu asa sper. Oricum mi-au venit consumabilele GM si saptama viitoare voi face schimbul, in speranta unor rezultate. La schimb presupun ca s-ar observa daca uleiul existent acum in motor s-a contaminat, nu?
- bazare
- ****
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- din 25 Nov 2008
- Astra 2002 y17dt
- Constanta
bazare
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- pinteaioan70
- **
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- Vectra 1996
- Maramures
pinteaioan70
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buna tuturor am si eu acceiasi problema dar am un vectra b 1,6 16v din 96
acum 2 saptamini mi sa aprins begul galben in bord si scotea mult fum am duso la mecanic am secmentat motorul schimbat garnituri supape absolut tot dar dupa 20km am observat ca imi creste nivelul in baia de ulei si miroase a benzina va rog sa ma ajutati ce poate fi sa fie garnitura de chiuloasa?
acum 2 saptamini mi sa aprins begul galben in bord si scotea mult fum am duso la mecanic am secmentat motorul schimbat garnituri supape absolut tot dar dupa 20km am observat ca imi creste nivelul in baia de ulei si miroase a benzina va rog sa ma ajutati ce poate fi sa fie garnitura de chiuloasa?
1st_opel
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dancuciureanu a scris:Eroarea de vacuum nu are legatura cu uleiul, daca uleiul e contaminat cu motorina nu se poate vedea pe tester, se vede dupa nivel, miros si viscozitate.
danynad poti schimba uleiul deja ca l-ai terminat cu drumuri scurte si contaminare cu motorina.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:
Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it.
danynad poti schimba uleiul deja ca l-ai terminat cu drumuri scurte si contaminare cu motorina.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:
Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it.
Salut.
Legat de schimbarea uleiului ca tot am avut si eu problema asta. Dan tu ce ulei recomanzi la vectra a 1.7 td ? Avand in vedere ca pana acum am folosit Mobil One 10w40 ma gandeam sa incerc sa il schimb cu CASTROL MAGNATECH 10w40. Mentionez ca masina are 290000km facuti deja.
- UNHleaSHD
- ****
- 1,356 mesaje
- din 06 Jun 2010
- Astra 2002 Y20DTH
- Ilfov
UNHleaSHD
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Si eu am/avut problema asta la un Y20DTH, am facut revizia si imediat cum am ajuns acasa nivelul era peste maxim si subtiat. Am mai mers asa circa 1000 de km si i-am mai facut un schimb, aceeasi problema iar nivelul crescut. Am fost la un service care a dat tot uleiul jos si l-a masurat, erau 4.5 L dar tot peste maxim.
La primul schimb efectuat nivelul uleiului crestea daca masina statea la ralanti, acum nu mai are nici o treaba (chiar daca e peste maxim). Masina merge nu scoate fum, nimic.
Masina inca de la proprietarul celalalt (primul in tara fiind el si eu al doilea) Aral BlueTronic 10-40.
La primul schimb efectuat nivelul uleiului crestea daca masina statea la ralanti, acum nu mai are nici o treaba (chiar daca e peste maxim). Masina merge nu scoate fum, nimic.
Masina inca de la proprietarul celalalt (primul in tara fiind el si eu al doilea) Aral BlueTronic 10-40.
- deleted-18977
- ****
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deleted-18977
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asta pentru faptul ca mecanicul ii pune exact cat scrie in cartea masinii .5.5 scrie 5.5 ii pune
cum majoritatea se grabesc si nu lasa cel putin 1h sa se scurga de tot ,automat cand vii cu inca 5,5 kg ulei la final vei constata ca ai nivelul cu mult peste maxim.
de aici aceste surplusuri si in 99.99 % numai dupa efectuarea schimbului.
lasa intotdeauna o marja de 300-400gr si mai completezi dupa aia daca e nevoie pe loc drept si dupa cel putin 2-3 ore sau chiar o noapte
cum majoritatea se grabesc si nu lasa cel putin 1h sa se scurga de tot ,automat cand vii cu inca 5,5 kg ulei la final vei constata ca ai nivelul cu mult peste maxim.
de aici aceste surplusuri si in 99.99 % numai dupa efectuarea schimbului.
lasa intotdeauna o marja de 300-400gr si mai completezi dupa aia daca e nevoie pe loc drept si dupa cel putin 2-3 ore sau chiar o noapte
- UNHleaSHD
- ****
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- Astra 2002 Y20DTH
- Ilfov
UNHleaSHD
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- dancuciureanu
- Moderator
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- din 26 Jun 2006
- Agila 2001 Z10XE + Z12XE
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dancuciureanu
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