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Salut,
de 2 luni detin o corsa c 1,3 cdti din 2004 cu 118.000.km. Astazi am observat ca degaja pe esapament un fum alb,cam iute la miros. Mentionez ca masina era pe rosu cu motorina.
Stie careva de la ce se datoreaza?
opelsan
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- jimmychelu
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- Corsa 2004 z13dt
- Brasov
jimmychelu
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- bavarezu
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bavarezu
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Sam 12 Jul, 2008 5:20 pm
jimmychelu a scris:salut. aceeasi problema o am si eu. poate ne lamureste cineva . multumesc
va "lamuresc" eu imediat , prima mea masina a fost o corsa 1,3 cdti din franta care avea aceiasi simtoma ,fumul era iute la miros , la o intalnire clubopel a venit un baiat cu o corsa tot din franta si la fel mirosea . teoretic trebuie sa existe un motiv , daca stie cineva poate ne lumineaza si pe noi .
Fialdo- Suspendat
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- jimmychelu
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jimmychelu
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Fialdo- Suspendat
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Dum 13 Jul, 2008 12:46 pm
Primul meu Opel l-am luat din Germania. Cand l-am adus in tara arata si functiona ca o masina noua. S-a cunoscut ca oamenii au avut grija de masina....
A doua mea masina am luat-o din Franta...si arata jalnic...super neingrijita...Cred ca au schimbat totul (ma refer la filtre si ulei) cat mai tarziu posibil si de proasta calitate....Ma chinui si eu sa-i scot fumul alb....
Fumul alb nu este de la motorina ci de la ulei motor (a se citi probleme posibil cu compresia)....
Pt inceput incearca sa faci o curatare a motorului cu un ulei de curatare (poate un Mobile 5000 Clean 10w40) si cu schimbarea filtrului de ulei de vreo 2-3 ori fara sa schimbi uleiul.....
Apoi poti sa incerci si o curatare a injectoarelor la un service sau cu o solutie de curatare pusa in motorina (varianta 2 e cam gargara)...
A doua mea masina am luat-o din Franta...si arata jalnic...super neingrijita...Cred ca au schimbat totul (ma refer la filtre si ulei) cat mai tarziu posibil si de proasta calitate....Ma chinui si eu sa-i scot fumul alb....
Fumul alb nu este de la motorina ci de la ulei motor (a se citi probleme posibil cu compresia)....
Pt inceput incearca sa faci o curatare a motorului cu un ulei de curatare (poate un Mobile 5000 Clean 10w40) si cu schimbarea filtrului de ulei de vreo 2-3 ori fara sa schimbi uleiul.....
Apoi poti sa incerci si o curatare a injectoarelor la un service sau cu o solutie de curatare pusa in motorina (varianta 2 e cam gargara)...
- jimmychelu
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jimmychelu
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Fialdo- Suspendat
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Dum 13 Jul, 2008 12:51 pm
In general fumul alb este mai intens dimineata la prima pornire....
Fumul dat de o motorina proasta este negru...
http://www.uleidemotor.com/...&subcat_id=46
Fumul dat de o motorina proasta este negru...
http://www.uleidemotor.com/...&subcat_id=46
- dancuciureanu
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dancuciureanu
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Dum 13 Jul, 2008 2:01 pm
Masina consuma ulei de asta scoate fum alb. Daca scoate numai la pornire e doar inceputul pe urma va scoate si la cald. Cauzele sunt proasta intretinere, drumuri scurte, ulei schimbat la 15-30,000km.
Preluat din TIS :
Preluat din TIS :
Measuring oil consumption
Oil consumption for a combustion engine refers to the amount of oil consumbed as a result of the combustion process. Oil consumption is not to be equated with oil loss resulting from leaks from components such as the oil pan and cylinder head cover.
The role of engine oil is to:
1. separate surfaces that slide against each other by means of an oil film, i.e. to prevent dry friction
2. dissipate heat generated by friction
3. lead away combustion residue
These tasks lead to a certain amount of oil consumption. Thus, the expectation that further development of the combustion engine will eventually mean that engines will not consume any oil is wrong.
Outside operating conditions, driving style and manufacturing tolerances do, however, have an impact on oil consumption.
It is imperative that oil be filled when the level has fallen below the "MIN" mark on the dipstick.
It is also important to ensure that the oil level is not above the "MAX" mark on the dipstick as this could result in increased oil consumption.
As oil consumption is affected by technical factors, the conclusion is reached that the engine does not consume oil in special operating conditions that lead to oil dilution.
During conditions such as frequent cold starts and driving before the engine reaches operating temperature, it is only the oil flowing back to the oil pan that carries away scalding fuel components and precipitates. This "dilutes" the oil and leads to the erroneous assumption that the engine consumes no oil.[/b]
Such diluted oil loses its ability to lubricate and could cause engine damage if the prescribed oil change intervals are not observed.Driving in predominately urban traffic and frequently running a cold engine at rpms above idle speed are the main causes of oil dilution.
As oil consumption does not stabilise until after a few thousand kilometers of travel, oil consumption measurements are not reliable until after a distance of about 7,500 km.
Before measuring consumption, ensure that the engine is not losing oil due to leakage.
The oil dipstick can only be used to check oil level. It cannot be used for measurement. The engine must have been off at least 5 minutes before checking oil level. If after an engine oil change the maximum oil capacity does not match the maximum level of the dipstick, this is due to necessary manufacturing tolerances.
All information on permissible engine oil consumption and capacities are found in the Owner's Manual.
1. The check is carried out with the vehicle parked on a level surface with the engine at operating temperature (engine oil temperature at least 80 ?C).
2. Drain the engine oil immediately after switching off the engine - drainage time = approx. 30 minutes (this value has been obtain through technical trials).
3. The quantity of drained engine oil is determined via a measuring container1). The container is then filled with fresh oil up to the maximum engine oil capacity minus the volume remaining in the unchanged oil filter.
4. With this engine oil quantity, the customer should be able to travel at 1000 km without needing to top up engine oil (the distance profile and customer driving style should be maintained).
5. Then, the preceding procedure (points 1 and 2) should be repeated with the exact same engine drainage time.
6. The oil quantity now "missing" from the measuring container is equal to the engine oil consumption for that distance.
7. Oil consumption is calculated as follows:
filled oil quantity (l) ? drained oil quantity (l)
x 1000 = oil consumption (l/1000 km)
total distance driven (km)
Oil consumption for a combustion engine refers to the amount of oil consumbed as a result of the combustion process. Oil consumption is not to be equated with oil loss resulting from leaks from components such as the oil pan and cylinder head cover.
The role of engine oil is to:
1. separate surfaces that slide against each other by means of an oil film, i.e. to prevent dry friction
2. dissipate heat generated by friction
3. lead away combustion residue
These tasks lead to a certain amount of oil consumption. Thus, the expectation that further development of the combustion engine will eventually mean that engines will not consume any oil is wrong.
Outside operating conditions, driving style and manufacturing tolerances do, however, have an impact on oil consumption.
It is imperative that oil be filled when the level has fallen below the "MIN" mark on the dipstick.
It is also important to ensure that the oil level is not above the "MAX" mark on the dipstick as this could result in increased oil consumption.
As oil consumption is affected by technical factors, the conclusion is reached that the engine does not consume oil in special operating conditions that lead to oil dilution.
During conditions such as frequent cold starts and driving before the engine reaches operating temperature, it is only the oil flowing back to the oil pan that carries away scalding fuel components and precipitates. This "dilutes" the oil and leads to the erroneous assumption that the engine consumes no oil.[/b]
Such diluted oil loses its ability to lubricate and could cause engine damage if the prescribed oil change intervals are not observed.Driving in predominately urban traffic and frequently running a cold engine at rpms above idle speed are the main causes of oil dilution.
As oil consumption does not stabilise until after a few thousand kilometers of travel, oil consumption measurements are not reliable until after a distance of about 7,500 km.
Before measuring consumption, ensure that the engine is not losing oil due to leakage.
The oil dipstick can only be used to check oil level. It cannot be used for measurement. The engine must have been off at least 5 minutes before checking oil level. If after an engine oil change the maximum oil capacity does not match the maximum level of the dipstick, this is due to necessary manufacturing tolerances.
All information on permissible engine oil consumption and capacities are found in the Owner's Manual.
1. The check is carried out with the vehicle parked on a level surface with the engine at operating temperature (engine oil temperature at least 80 ?C).
2. Drain the engine oil immediately after switching off the engine - drainage time = approx. 30 minutes (this value has been obtain through technical trials).
3. The quantity of drained engine oil is determined via a measuring container1). The container is then filled with fresh oil up to the maximum engine oil capacity minus the volume remaining in the unchanged oil filter.
4. With this engine oil quantity, the customer should be able to travel at 1000 km without needing to top up engine oil (the distance profile and customer driving style should be maintained).
5. Then, the preceding procedure (points 1 and 2) should be repeated with the exact same engine drainage time.
6. The oil quantity now "missing" from the measuring container is equal to the engine oil consumption for that distance.
7. Oil consumption is calculated as follows:
filled oil quantity (l) ? drained oil quantity (l)
x 1000 = oil consumption (l/1000 km)
total distance driven (km)
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Dum 13 Jul, 2008 2:12 pm
Asa am crezut si eu initial, ca-mi consuma ulei. Era si vestea cea mai proasta pe care puteam sa o primesc datorita cheltuielilor pt remedierea acestei probleme.
Dupa 2000 km am constatat ca nu-mi mananca ulei (ceea ce este f bine) dar tot mai scoate dimineata (pe racoare) cate un fum alb inecacios...
Cauza este fara doar si poate intretinerea proasta a masinii (de fapt am scris si mai sus asta). Acum ma chinui sa o remediez....motorul merge deja mai bine (pot spune ca incepe sa-mi placa cum toarce)...
P.S. Adresa corecta de mai sus este http://www.uleidemotor.com/...&subcat_id=46
Dupa 2000 km am constatat ca nu-mi mananca ulei (ceea ce este f bine) dar tot mai scoate dimineata (pe racoare) cate un fum alb inecacios...
Cauza este fara doar si poate intretinerea proasta a masinii (de fapt am scris si mai sus asta). Acum ma chinui sa o remediez....motorul merge deja mai bine (pot spune ca incepe sa-mi placa cum toarce)...
P.S. Adresa corecta de mai sus este http://www.uleidemotor.com/...&subcat_id=46
- dancuciureanu
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dancuciureanu
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Dum 13 Jul, 2008 2:47 pm
Intervale service lungi si ulei prost se manifesta la benzina cu depuneri tari in ciruitul ulei si baie, culbutori etc. La diesel aceste depuneri sunt cleioase.
Se va citi :
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Ce se poate intimpla? Simplu, cazul lui lorenzo la care s-a blocat motorul:
https://www.clubopel.com/vie...amp;highlight=btm
Hai ca il spalam dar la el motorul este compromis total ca in loc de ulei avea un clei care numai ungere nu facea...
Se va citi :
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Ce se poate intimpla? Simplu, cazul lui lorenzo la care s-a blocat motorul:
https://www.clubopel.com/vie...amp;highlight=btm
Hai ca il spalam dar la el motorul este compromis total ca in loc de ulei avea un clei care numai ungere nu facea...
- Cumnatu1
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Lun 14 Jul, 2008 2:05 am
Mamaaa ce citesc aici.
1. Mai baieti, fumul alb e de la APA.
Deci, e normal condensul dar daca el este cumulat cu disparitia apei din vasul de expansiune atunci pe undeva pierde apa ( garnitura impuscata ) .
De obicei aceasta oierdere vine cu un tremurat al masinii.
2. Fumul NEGRU este de la motorina nearsa sau papare de ulei.
3. Fumul ABLASTRU este de la benzina nearsa .
Gresesc cu 2 si 3 ? Cu 1 nu gresesc sigur.
1. Mai baieti, fumul alb e de la APA.
Deci, e normal condensul dar daca el este cumulat cu disparitia apei din vasul de expansiune atunci pe undeva pierde apa ( garnitura impuscata ) .
De obicei aceasta oierdere vine cu un tremurat al masinii.
2. Fumul NEGRU este de la motorina nearsa sau papare de ulei.
3. Fumul ABLASTRU este de la benzina nearsa .
Gresesc cu 2 si 3 ? Cu 1 nu gresesc sigur.
- Batman
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Batman
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- dancuciureanu
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Fialdo- Suspendat
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Lun 14 Jul, 2008 11:13 am
In primul rand pt a nu se crea confuzii trebuie sa spunem ca nu exista fum albastru. In realitate acesta este de un bleu-alb.
In privinta condensului este f adevarat ca mai ales dimineata, la prima pornire, acesta apare in mod iminent. Dar ce te faci cand fumul este f dens (iti acopera masina ta si cele doua masini de langa tine) si nu ai pierderi nici de lichid de racire, nici de ulei ......
In privinta condensului este f adevarat ca mai ales dimineata, la prima pornire, acesta apare in mod iminent. Dar ce te faci cand fumul este f dens (iti acopera masina ta si cele doua masini de langa tine) si nu ai pierderi nici de lichid de racire, nici de ulei ......
- dancuciureanu
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dancuciureanu
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Lun 14 Jul, 2008 11:33 am
Daca scoate fum si totusi nu consuma ulei sau antigel distributia nu e la punct, in cazul motorului Z13xyz lant lungit. Se schimba distributia, este topic separat despre ea.
Lantul este destul de lung la Z13 ca si la Z10/12 sau Z14XEP, asta combinat cu km care nu sunt reali face toata treaba. A nu se confunda simptomul de "lantul este vesnic" de la Y20DTH ca acolo de fapt sunt doua foarte scurte si groase.
Lantul este destul de lung la Z13 ca si la Z10/12 sau Z14XEP, asta combinat cu km care nu sunt reali face toata treaba. A nu se confunda simptomul de "lantul este vesnic" de la Y20DTH ca acolo de fapt sunt doua foarte scurte si groase.
- petrecila
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petrecila
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- dancuciureanu
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- dancuciureanu
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dancuciureanu
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Lun 14 Jul, 2008 1:27 pm
Mi-am adus aminte, daca fumega numai dimineata cind e rece motorul se mai intimpla sa fie simeringurile supape duse. Consumul de ulei nu este mare, maxim 1l la 10,000km dar suficient sa fumege. In cazul pornirilor dese uleiul oricum este contaminat cu motorina si te duce in eroare privind faptul ca nu consuma motorul mai nimic.
- alecsandrius
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alecsandrius
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Lun 14 Jul, 2008 7:14 pm
dancuciureanu a scris:Mi-am adus aminte, daca fumega numai dimineata cind e rece motorul se mai intimpla sa fie simeringurile supape duse. Consumul de ulei nu este mare, maxim 1l la 10,000km dar suficient sa fumege. In cazul pornirilor dese uleiul oricum este contaminat cu motorina si te duce in eroare privind faptul ca nu consuma motorul mai nimic.
unui amic de al meu care avea aceiasi problema i-au zis la service ca sacotea fum alb din cauza ca mergea subturat....a mers apoi mai turat si nu a mai avut probleme
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