Corsa motor benzina - cauze consum ulei de motor

Buna,
Am o Corsa fabricatie 2005, 1.0 Z10XE benzina, eu o am din iunie 2008.
Schimbul de ulei i l-am facut imediat dupa cumparare iar de cand o am am facut maxim 6 mii cu ea (are aproape 85.000).
Din pacate la schimbul de ulei n-am fost eu cu ea, desteptul ala de la service nu mi-a pus sticker cu tipul de ulei si data la care a facut schimbul......asa ca nu stiu nici cu ulei a avut nici ce ulei mi-au pus.
Problema este ca astazi cand am desfacut capacelul de la ulei, locasul este f murdar iar pe dosul capacului este o chestie vascoasa , am pus 2 poze.....teava esapament este si ea cam neagra.

Ce ma sfatuiti sa fac?trebuie schimbat?la cati km/per de timp este cel mai bine sa schimb uleiul?
Sunt junioara in masini/corse ...asa ca va multumesc anticipat pentu raspuns.
Cristina

va multumesc mult de tot!
3 mici nelamuriri va rog daca se poate
1.Cati litri?
2.Il folosesc ca pe un ulei normal si-l schimb la cati km?Adica exista vreo recomandare speciala pentru el (pe site scria ca se schimba la 12.000 dar mi se pare f mult)
3.Ar trebui sa-mi fac curatenie mai amanuntit la motor, in afara de ulei?

Cu Stima

Inca o data pentru toate, sper sa si gasesc un service cum trebuie (am unul dar inca nu m-au convins pe deplin )
La intalnirile voastre cum ma inscriu ?
Ca am impresia ca voi afla multe lucruri interesante !
Cu Stima!

Aseasra pt ca nu aveam ce face( mai bine ma duceam la polivalenta dar am vazut tarziu mesajul) am zis sa cobor sa ma mai uit la masina (sunt cam surubareasa din fire )
O pornesc, si ma duc sa ma uit la esapament sa vad aca scoate fum ceva (ma gendeam ca de la ulei poate iese fum - o duc miercurea viitoare sa ii fac schimbul).
La teava de esapament !!!! pe margine in interior...apa sau ceva de genul, oricum nu ulei, consistenta nevascosa relativ neagra (tinand cont de faptul ca am teava murdara zic ca de la asta sa fie).CE INSEAMNA ACEST LUCRU???
Are banuiesc si altceva in afara de ulei....?
Te rog mult de tot zi-mi la ce sa ma uit sau cum sa o "testez" sa vad ce ar putea avea...!
Cu Stima!

De astazi dupa ce am postat m-am uitat continuu pe forum si-am citit si curatare egr ,throttle, si ce mai este pe acolo (egr si throttle le-am printat ca am o vaga banuiala ca dupa Paste ma apuc desi nu ma pricep ).

La admisie mi se pare mai greu poate ma ajuta service-ul.
Revin cu o poza (este f probabil sa incep eu sa fiu paranoia si sa nu fie nimic grav ).
Mai citesc si daca ma poticnesc ,revin.

Sa mai multumesc n-are rost ca e prea putin
*Nu ma asteptam sa mi se raspunda in asa scurt timp si exact
Cu Stima!
Sarbatori frumoase!

pai eu sunt din ct ..am facut`o aici la un mecanic si de atunci am facut cu ea 22.000km fara absolut nici o problema la motor. suna-ma si vbim detalii 0766257855

1. Iarna uleiul la motorul asta trebuie sa fie 0W40
2. Vara poate fi unul mai viscos la rece de genul 5W sau 10W
3. In timp si km uleiul se depolimerizeaza si devine mai subtire, astfel e "papat" de motor
4. La temperaturi scazute pistonul se contracta, pina se incalzeste la temperatura de lucru ca sa fie fest cu ajutorul unor segmenti uzati/mizerabili uleiul este ars
5. Tot in cazul de mai sus o parte din gaze ajung in carter inferior, se combina cu ulei si condens de apare spuma galbena care din carter superior pleaca pe admisie.
6. Tot in cazurile 4+5 o distributie uzata le favorizeaza, supapele admisie/evacuare nu se deschid la momentul oportun
7. Iarna ai asa numitul soc automat, ECU tine motorul mai turat dar si injecteaza o cantitate mai mare de benzina pentru 1-2 minute, benzina nu arde toata, o parte iese pe esapament dar si spala cilindri de ulei, intra in baie subtiind uleiul

Totul e o reactie in bucla inchisa si se numeste "masina de femeie". Adica face drumuri scurte si motorul mai tot timpul nu apuca sa se incalzeasca, ulei pus dupa ce avea mecanicul pe acolo, distributie care tacane ca asa face toate, plecat de pe loc imediat ce a pornit motorul...

Rezolvare:
- schimbi uleiul si pui unul de curatare de la Mobil 10W40, la toamna treci pe Mobil1 0W40
- la temperaturi scazute nu pleci de pe loc 1-2 min, cind scade ralantiul e ok si nu o turezi primii 2-3 km
- verifici distributie, aici poate sa te ajute szilid
- pui de acum ulei de calitate
- uleiul il schimbi in octombrie-noiembrie si prin martie-aprilie il arunci deoarece aia 3,000km il uzeaza cit vara 10,000km

Discutii de citit ai si aici dar mai complet la Agila, ulei motor, distributie etc.

In trimiterile mele aveai link catre "biblie". Poate il crezi pe Chris:
Servicing and checking
For God's sake don't skimp on either of these. You can never check your engine oil too often. Use the dipstick - that's what it's there for - and don't run below the 'min' mark. Below that, there isn't enough oil for the pump to be able to supply the top of the engine whilst keeping a reserve in the sump. All oils, no matter what their type, are made of long-chained molecules which get sheared into shorter chains in a running engine. This in turn means that the oil begins to lose it's viscosity over time, and it uses up the additives in it that prevent scuffing between cams and followers, rings and cylinder walls etc etc. When this happens, fresh oil is the key. And don't worry about the engine oil turning black. It will lose it's golden-brown colour within a few hundred miles of being put in to the engine. That doesn't mean it's not working. Quite the contrary - it means it is working well. It changes colour as it traps oxidised oil, clots and the flakes of metal that pop off heavily loaded engine parts. Just don't leave it too long between oil changes.

So how often should I change my oil?

You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The whole debate about exactly when you change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 10,000 miles or so. Your mate with a classic car tells you every 3,000 miles. Ole' Bob with the bad breath who drives a truck tells you he's never once changed the oil in his car. Fact is, large quantities of water are produced by the normal combustion process and, depending on engine wear, some of it gets into the crank case. If you have a good crank case breathing system it gets removed from there PDQ, but even so, in cold weather a lot of condensation will take place. This is bad enough in itself, since water is not noted for its lubrication qualities in an engine, but even worse, that water dissolves any nitrates formed during the combustion process. If my memory of chemistry serves me right, that leaves you with a mixture of Nitric (HNO3) and Nitrous (HNO2) acid circulating round your engine! So not only do you suffer a high rate of wear at start-up and when the engine is cold, you suffer a high rate of subsequent corrosion during normal running or even when stationary.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:

Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)
Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)
Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)
State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)
Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)
Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)
If you were clever (or anal) enough, you could probably come up with a really clever formula incorporating all those factors. However, I would give 1, 2, and 3 equal top weighting. Items 1 to 3 have to be taken together since a given number of "cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January. The effect in either case will be modified by how much gas gets past the pistons. What we are really after is the severity and duration of the initial condensation period. All other things being equal, that will give you how much condensate will be produced and I would suggest that more than anything else determines when the oil should be dumped.

Dammit Chris, get to the point already!
Hang on a tic - if you really want the answer, there's a couple more factors you need to take account of: Crank-case scavenging (that's the clever term for sucking the nasty fumes back out of the crank-case) - or lack of it - is a crucial multiplying factor affecting all the other items listed above. As an example, the worst I've heard of was a Ford Fiesta of the mid 70s or so. It's crank-case fume extraction was via a tiny orifice directly into the inlet manifold which obviously could not handle any significant volume of crank-case fumes without upsetting the carburation. The car in question had been used almost exclusively for 5 mile journeys to/from work, shopping etc, and it had always been serviced "by the book". Despite (or because of) this, the engine was totally buggered at 40,000 miles. Alternatively you might get a car that by virtue of excellent crank case fume scavenging could tolerate many more cold starts than one without.

Taking all these into consideration, my philosophy would be to totally ignore the distance and change the oil three times a year - about November, February and May. Move these dates a bit according to the severity of the winter. An average family car will do around 14,000 miles per year and about 2/3 of that will fall in the May - November period. At the end of that period, the car will have just about touched on the recommended oil change distance - but all done at reasonable temperatures and including long distance runs during vacations and good weather. During the Nov - Feb. period it may accumulate only 2 or 3 thousand miles, all low temperature starts and mostly short runs. The Feb. to May period is likely to be about the same.
About 10 or 15 years ago, an article in the ANWB journal (ANWB is the Dutch equivalent of the AA - or the AAA in the American case) reached more or less the same conclusion that distance was not very important. In their case they applied this to their road service fleet, which typically once started in the morning never got cold. In effect, they hardly ever changed the oil! I seem to remember 30,000 miles between oil changes being quoted. I also seem to remember that they had some kind of water or acid indicator attached to the end of the dipstick and went by that rather than distance

3 litri ?

Buna!

Abia am ajuns in clubul Opel. Am o problema cu masina, o Corsa 1.4 TW, Z14XEP, din 2006 cu 28.000 km. Am turat-o la drum lung destul de tare pentru maxim 2 minute, adica am dus-o in 5000 - 5500 ture, sa vad pana unde se duce. De la presiunea creata la moror a sarit ulei, a pierdut ..nu foarte mult. Am verificat la joja si era in grafic totul, in schimb a murdarit tot sub capota. Spuneti-mi va rog daca vi s-a intamplat vreodata asa ceva. De la faptul ca motorul era cald, mirosea foarte urat, a ulei ars. Masina nu a fost chinuita, nu a fost forjata, a fost chiar invatata lenesa, dar nu este normal ca la doar 28000 km sa faca asa ceva. Mai mult de atat, masina mea cu motor 1,4 are la 120km/h 4000 de ture...in conditiile in care, la 5000 arunca ulei...ce ma fac cu ea?


Mersi!