Montaj faruri lupa pe Astra H

Cica ar trebui schimbat un pin dar care cine stie 😊

Pe unde ati gasit asa ieftin farurile? La banii astia m-as baga sa mi le schimb si eu pe ale mele..

Uitati cum se monteaza farurile cu xenon in locul celor normal

Guide - How to wire NON AFL Bi-Xenon Lights
Hi chaps

Here is a rough guide on how I wired the Non AFL Bi-xenon lights. Please read the whole guide before attempting any work, so you are familiar with all the parts involved.


As you will have heard, these lights need a touch of modification before they are plug and play. This mainly due to the fact that the standard Astra H halogen loom uses 8 pins to the light, where as the Xenon one requires 10 pins. The 2 extra pins are just earths as shown in pic below.



I found the easiest way of getting the additional earths was to work inside the light, rather than change the loom. If you feel confident in changing the loom, the effect wil be the same, but you still require to cut off the Hella ballast connector if using aftermarket xenons. The additonal earths inside the light are required for the ballast minus and the projector shield minus (movable shutter inside projector on high beam).

I located the earth which came off pin 1. This earth feeds into the minus for the halogen high beam. By working inside the light with the rubber cover off for the halogen hi beam, I cut the earth wire and added an electrical connector block an this is how I got the additional earths. So coming out of this block was the continue earth to the halogen bulb and 2 additional wires for the extra earths. The wires that require the extra earths inside the light are not quite long enough to reach this block, so I place in a couple of wires myself to reach the final destination of these wires.

The 2 wire to connect are as follows - Brown wire to projector -


and brown wire (which goes underneath the light with yellow +). This can be seen in the bottom right hans corner of the light under the halogen high beam -
Splice these wire into your additional earths.

The next bit to do is to remove the plug under the light if you are not using Hella Ballasts . Please note I do not know if the Hella ones will just plug in as the wire going up to the ballast connection has 4 wires and may need an additional loom to plug in into plug I removed - The cost of the Hella ballasts also put me off them



This is done by pushing it into the light. It has plastic clips either side and fairly easily pushes in. Now working via the access hole to the projector, fish out the plug.
The plug has the yellow and brown wire attached to it and coming off that is also the Hella ballast connection. I cut the yellow and brown wire, which completely removes this plug from the light. These yellow and brown wire are the + and - for you xenon ballasts.

I fitted Hids4U 35w 4300k kit. The ballasts for this kit had to mounted outside the light, however this is quite easy. To hole left by the plug is used for your ballast wires to pass through. I then mounted the ballast underneath the light, under the halogen side. There are pillars underneath the light and these rest on a tray under the mounted light to help support it. However, this tray does not extend under the halogen bit and leaves the perfect space for the ballast to fit. By using 2 of the pillars, there are holes in the end of these for screws. I placed in 2 screws and put then in half way. The ballast fits neatly between the pillars and I used a cable tie between the two screws to secure the ballast. An additional tie was attached to the bolt mounting point to make sure it was secure.

Job done - just fit

done some digging around on the vx tis2000 and found the following pinouts...

halogen...

pin1... high, low, park, turn gnd
pin2... high+
pin3... low+
pin4... park+
pin5... turn+
pin6... level+
pin7... level gnd
pin8... level signal
pin9... not used
pin10. not used

afl...

pin1... high, park, turn gnd
pin2... high+, afl motor+
pin3... xenon+
pin4... park+
pin5... turn+
pin6... level+
pin7... level signal
pin8... level gnd
pin9... afl motor gnd
pin10. xenon gnd

as you can see pin 7 and 8 is the wrong way round, this can quite easily be swapped round but i don't think it matters because the reason the manual levelling switch inside the car won't work with afls is that although the +, gnd and signal inputs are present to run the levelling motor, the inputs are sent to the afl controller first but as this is not being used it doesn't pass the inputs to the levelling motor.

i've looked at bypassing the afl controller and sending the inputs directly to the levelling motor but it needs 4 inputs to run and i only have 3, as yet i don't know what the missing input is and in what order they should be.

so to get the afls working all it looks like i have to do i wire up a ground to the xenon pin 10 but i'll also swap pin 7 and 8 and put in a ground at pin 9 for the afl motor, then i'll try and get the levelling motors working.

pics and more info to come...


Cine vrea sa faca un rezumat e binevenit 😊 ca sa fie mai usor.

felicitari pentru initiativa. ar fi super daca a-ti face si un tutorial pe aceasta tema ca toti cei care vor sa isi faca modificarea sa aiba de unde invata... si banuiesc ca veti pune si instalatie de spalat farurile ca altfel... 😉

@GabiB-77 daca tot ai sarit pe mine in celalalt topic 😛 hai sa iti spun ce am facut :

- facut rost 1 bucata far stanga cu AFL nou si 1 bucata far dreapta fara AFL sh
- facut rost balasturi originale si ignitere Hella + 1 set becuri D2S 6000k
- polishat far dreapta si apoi aplicat folie transparenta antigriblura pe ambele faruri

- modificat fire far fara AFL : in interiorul farului firul maro ce vine la mufa balastului l-am unit cu firul maro ce vine la clapeta de la xenon si de acolo am tras un fir ce l-a unit cu un fir negru de la pozitie ( firul negru este firul ce vine de la pinul 1 GND din mufa de alimentare al farului )

- modificat mufa far cu AFL : datorita faptului ca nu ai acces la fire in acest tip de far am pus 2 pini 9 si 10 in mufa de alimentare a farului si apoi am unit cu firul maro de la pinul 1 GND, in cele din urma firele 7 si 8 le-am taiat si inversat

Bineinteles ca dupa ce am montat farurile totul functiona mai putin faza scurta ( se apindeau 2-3 secunde si apoi se stingeau )

Pentru a rezolva aceasta problema am apelat la un coleg al nostru de pe clubopel care m-a trimis la un baiat ce are Tech2 ( cu opcom nu se poate face nimic ).

Pentru a activa se urmeaza pasii:

-se intra la Body
-apoi IPU ECU , se selecteaza AHL Headlamps si apoi Programming
-se revine in meniul Body si se intra la EHU
-ultima optiune este Programming si acolo se alege tot AHL Headlamps si apoi Programming

Si normal ca a functionat .

Cand am fost sa reglez farurile am constatat ca reglajul pe verticala al farului stanga ( cel cu AFL ) nu functioneaza 😢 dar.....pentru a iesi totul ok am reglat farul stanga la o valoare optima si cel din dreapta umpic mai sus pentru ca pe acela pot sa il dau mai jos din butonul din bord.

Momentan nimeni din trafic nu s-a plans de reglajul facut si sunt foarte multumit de cum se vede faza scurta , nu mai zic de faza lunga care este lungaaaaa 😃

exact 😢 dar daca ai decat farul de pe stanga de acest tip si il reglezi cum trebuie nu o sa ai probleme 😛

nu am avut cum sa verific 100% decat dupa ce am rezolvat faza scurta 😛

prea complicat si nu se merita , mai bine ma atinge vreunul pe aripa stanga si schimb farul pe asigurarea lui 😃

nu nu , aici gresesti, o sa iti dea far la fel ca pe dreapta adica bixenon fara afl 😛

mai sus discutam de farurile originale Hella ( cu AFL sau fara ) cele ce vin pe masina din fabrica si nu cele Hella DynaBeam care le vezi pe site-ul producatorului 😉